Completed Arts, Culture & Design History, Languages & Philosophy

Huntington Library - Early Modern Props and Costumes: Materials, Techniques, and Makers

In plain English

AI plain-English summary

A single woman’s linen-draping business in London supplied fabric for the costumes and stage effects of Shakespeare’s contemporaries. This book-length study uncovers the forgotten makers, traders, and artificers—from colonial spice merchants to printers like Elizabeth Allde—who built the props, costumes, and stage effects for sixteenth- and seventeenth-century English theatre. Existing scholarship focuses on playwrights and play texts, leaving the material side of performance largely invisible. By examining accounts, inventories, and dramatic texts alongside physical objects, the research reveals the collaborative networks of knowledge, personnel, and resources that made early modern theatre possible. This is fundamental historical research with no immediate practical application. It fills a gap in understanding how performance actually worked—who made the fake blood, the paper crowns, the stage snow. Similar work on craft networks has reshaped how we think about labour, gender, and global trade in pre-industrial economies. A deeper picture of these supply chains could eventually inform museum conservation, historical reconstruction, and how we teach the material culture of the past.

View original technical description
Early Modern Props and Costumes examines the materials, makers, and techniques of theatrical props, costumes, and stage effects in sixteenth- and seventeenth-century performance. My book broadens the focus of existing studies of early modern theatre to encompass a range of different performances (plays, masques, pageants) and documents (accounts, inventories, dramatic texts), from canonical drama such as Christopher Marlowe’s Doctor Faustus to “lost” plays like Friar Rush and the Proud Woman of Antwerp. Close analysis of material culture and its archival traces reveals hitherto unknown details about the individuals and networks which shaped early modern performance, from the colonial spice trade to one woman’s London linen-draping business. This will be the first book-length study of the makers, traders, and artificers who were integral to the theatre of Shakespeare and his contemporaries but are so often overlooked. This monograph argues that collaboration and the sharing of knowledge, personnel, and resources were essential to early modern theatre across different forms of performance and venues. This research is a development of my doctoral thesis, Ephemeral Matters: The Materials and Documents of Early Modern Performance (submitted July 2023), which examined the ephemerality of materials and props such as snow, starch, fruit, mirrors, and paper. I will use this Fellowship to develop a book proposal, for which I am in conversation with Bloomsbury’s Studies in Early Modern Material Culture series, as well as new research using the Huntington’s manuscript and print collections into a chapter on the printer Elizabeth Allde.

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Researchers

Anouska Lester (Principal Investigator)

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Original classification

Training Grant

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