The global textile industry pumps out 10% of global emissions, and this project swaps petrochemical glues and dyes for biodegradable proteins and microbial pigments that work on existing factory machinery. This matters because synthetic adhesives, dyes, and water-repellent treatments are toxic, persistent, and generate vast wastewater and microplastics. Current bio-based alternatives often fail on durability or can’t be dropped into existing manufacturing lines. The team has already shown that recombinant hydrophobic proteins boost water resistance and fire resistance in cellulose, while melanin and indigo pigments provide colourfast, UV-protective, non-toxic colour. If this succeeds, fashion, packaging, and cosmetics could eliminate fossil-derived materials without retooling factories. The project optimises fermentation production, refines roll-to-roll application, and runs life-cycle and techno-economic analyses. Early trials with Sequinova—a company making biodegradable cellulose sequins—have already integrated protein adhesives and microbial pigments, improving water resistance, heat resistance, and colour stability without synthetic additives. Beyond sequins, applications include technical garments, compostable packaging, and cosmetic formulations. The result would be reduced environmental impact, improved occupational safety, and new UK bioeconomy value chains.
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The global textile industry is among the most polluting sectors, responsible for 10% of global emissions and generating vast volumes of wastewater and microplastics. This impact is driven by the widespread use of petrochemical-derived adhesives, synthetic dyes, and water-repellent treatments, many of which contain toxic or persistent chemicals. Despite growing demand for sustainable alternatives, current bio-based options often fall short in terms of performance, durability, or compatibility with existing industrial processes, limiting their adoption. This project addresses that challenge by building on BBSRC- and EPSRC-funded research to develop biologically produced adhesives and pigments that are biodegradable, high-performing, and compatible with established manufacturing systems. Our research has shown that recombinant hydrophobic proteins can significantly enhance hydrophobicity and fire resistance in cellulosic materials, and that biologically produced pigments such as melanin and indigo offer colourfast, UV-protective, and non-toxic alternatives to synthetic dyes. Importantly, these innovations are designed as ‘plug-in’ solutions that work within existing textile workflows, removing the need for disruptive changes to manufacturing infrastructure. The project will validate the scalability by optimising the production of these biomolecules through fermentation, refine application techniques for roll-to-roll manufacturing, and assess environmental and economic impact through life cycle and techno-economic analysis. It is structured around four objectives: (1) technical optimisation of biomolecule production; (2) performance validation in real-world textile settings; (3) assessment of environmental and economic impact; and (4) stakeholder engagement to support commercial adoption. The work has been co-developed with Sequinova, a sustainable fashion company producing biodegradable cellulose sequins. Early-stage trials have shown that protein-based adhesives and microbial pigments can be successfully integrated into Sequinova’s materials, enhancing water resistance, heat resistance and colour stability without the need for synthetic additives. This collaboration not only provides an immediate commercial use case, but also a route to wider market engagement across fashion, packaging, and cosmetics. Potential applications extend beyond sequins to non-fibrous textiles, technical garments, cosmetic formulations, and compostable packaging—supporting sectors seeking to eliminate fossil-derived materials. Our bio-based solutions offer enhanced performance, environmental safety, and circularity. As regulatory frameworks tighten and consumers demand cleaner products, the urgency and opportunity for this innovation continue to grow. The anticipated benefits are considerable: reduced environmental impact, improved occupational safety, and the development of new UK-based value chains within the bioeconomy. This project directly supports BBSRC’s strategic objectives for clean growth and sustainable manufacturing. By translating lab-scale innovations into market-ready solutions, we will help catalyse a shift towards more sustainable, biologically derived materials, ensuring the UK remains at the forefront of bio-based innovation.
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